The origin of chikankari cannot be substantiated. Different people have different notions of its beginning. Some say, queen Noorjahan introduced this embroidery and some other say it started in Bengal in 3rd century. If we seek literal meaning then chikan refers to floral prints on fine Muslim clothes. There are great numbers of patterns possible for designer kurtis on chikan work.
Design wise, basically three types of designs are commonly seen, embossed stitch, flat stitch and jail work. Embossed stitch gives you much in demand grainy look whereas flat stitch is quite subtle in nature. If you want completely delicate effect created by thread tension then go for jail work. Talking about basic process involved in chikankari, cutting, stitching, printing, embroidery, washing and finishing are the processes. Workers have to be very crafty to come up with beautiful pieces of embroidery.