The quintessential Saree

Sari is a typical Indian dress. Six yards of cloth, that’s all. Sari is worn by Indian women across all the states of India with much aplomb. Considered as one of the most elegant dresses ever worn by a woman, saree symbolizes feminism and sophistication. Saree can be stylist as well as seductive. It adds an element of poise and glamour to the wearer. The striking aspect of saree is, despite India treading firmly on the path of modernization, saree has remained an essential dress in millions of Indian households. It has managed to ward off all the new dresses, western clothes and different cultures. If truth be told, saree symbolizes India ness. In the life of Indian women, saree holds an important place. Whether its marriage, festivals, child birth, death and many more things, saree conveys it all. Different colors of saree tell different stories. Red is what one associates with bride and marriage. Silky gold color is worn in times of festivals like Diwali and Dasahra. White saree denotes parting of a loved one.

Every region of India presents a different facet of saree. Also, weavers and dryers of a particular region express the story of saree in a different way through their designs. Like, south Indian saares are represented by silk in appealing colors. Few of them even weigh 10 kgs. Patola weave and bandini style is associated with western region whereas kantha stitched silk saree is a hallmark of Bengal. Few of these Bengali saree take as much as six months of preparation. No wonder, they look so exquisite and fascinating. Banarasi saree are famous for their brocades whereas paithani silk saree is a gift from Maharashtra.

Khadi’s Arrival in Fashion World

Khadi’s journey into the world of fashion began with khadi show which was presented in Mumbai by the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC). It was organized in 1989 and the real highlight was showcase of 85 dazzling garments, created by Devika Bhojwani. It was an interesting mix of eastern and western attire. Famous designer Ritu Kumar presented her first Khadi collection at the Crafts Museum in 1990. It was also an informative show because of her unique Tree of Life show. It was actually an audio visual tableau which displayed historical journey of textiles in India, the creators of textiles and design lexicon of the country. She also presented talents of those who have been instrumental in regenerating textile crafts and the potential users of the garments.

Her show was a big hit and in fact so big that it has been presented several times. This show was also presented in London in1997 where khadi managed to fascinate British as well. Today, khadi’s popularity is such that it’s a must part of every fashion conscious person’s wardrobe. With changing times people have started to adopt retro fashion and in that case khadi leads the pack.

Kamal Wadkar is another renowned promoter of khadi clothes. She is involved with traditional crafts. According to him, khadi is also the ideal fabric considering Indian climate because of its cool texture and loose weaving. He is credited to present almost 4500 garments in 150 styles in different colors weaves and embellishment with prices ranging from Rs.460-750. She had also aptly titled her exhibition ‘Elegance in Khadi’.

Khadi- The Journey

Soon after independence, Khadi and Village Industries Board were established in 1953. Initially it had only 156 registered institutions. But how drastically, things have changed. Now a day every village in farthest parts of the country has it own khadi institutions. From the days of finding the weaving of khadi rather difficult, things have changed a lot. Now, range of khadi products is truly unlimited from garments to household linen to furnishings, etc.

Let’s take a look into the weaving of khadi. The basic step is spinning of the thread on the charkha which is followed by bobbin winder, then sizer and finally the weaving process. Under the system, a weaver does all the weaving at his place in an individual capacity whereas spinning is organized by the khadi Board. Weaving is most often done by men whereas spinning is performed by women and girls of the villages. There is a lot of work involved in the process and that explains its comparatively higher price than mill or handloom cloth.

Khadi has traveled a long way since the days of being identified with freedom fighter’s fabric. With changing times, it has turned into a fashion garment. It’s hard to imagine the days when it was ridiculed for being a fabric for the farmer and the rural wearer. But now, demand is such that, despite millions of workers all over India, demands are never met.

Khadi - The Origin

Khadi commands a sentimental value for Indians. It is often associated with Mahatma Gandhi. Someone said, the first true Indian designer was Mahatma because of his appeal to Indians to wear khadi garments. That appeal was necessitated because of the need of creating self reliance and proving unity of India to English. Khadi also symbolized the need and importance of indigenous manufactured goods. Khadi represented India’s resistance and revolution. Khadi was also the face of Indian identity. Many people get confused between charkha with kargha (handloom). The basic difference between the two is while khadi is hand made; handloom yarn is processed at the mills.

The actual meaning of khadi is any cloth that is hand spun and hand woven. India has long history of textiles. In the Vedic period, Aryans used to produce their own cloth. Khadi had an important role in marriage functions. Khadi charkhas were presented to brides in their wedding trousseau to encourage spinning of the yarn.

Even history supports and validates importance of khadi and basic Indian textiles. As per the historians, Alexander the Great was mesmerized by the art of fabric making and printing. The renowned traveler Marco Polo was also dazzled by this Indian beauty. But it was our own father of the nation who gave it the real importance which was long due. His launching of movement of spin your own cloth and buy hand spun cloth had whole country flocking to wear khadi and rejecting all other types of textiles. No wonder, khadi is considered as the fabric of the freedom struggle.

Latest Trends and Prices of Dupatta

Rajasthani dupattas are also called Laharia. They are mostly accompanied by tie and dye strips in colorful contrast. The literal meaning of Laharia is one that ripples in the wind. This ripple effect can be seen in not only dupatta but also in its bold stripes. Both flutter and its effects fluttering give it an impression of rippling in the wind. In some northern parts of India, it is used as a headscarf knotted at the back of the head.

The popularity of dupattas can be seen in various shopping centers in Delhi and Bombay. Numerous shops in these metros are specialized in selling various forms, designs and prints of dupattas. One can see crinkled tissues, dupattas in tanchoi, organzas and tissues, gold black prints. Among other latest trends in dupatta are; khadi-work in cottons, tinseled work on heavy silken brocades and chiffons and dupattas in tanchoi, organzas and tissues.

The price range of dupattas differs from place to place and brand to brand. Price also varies according to the style of dupatta. Like simple printed cottons and chiffons are available in relatively cheap range of Rs.60/- to Rs.80/-. More the embroidery work, highly priced will be the dupatta. For example, bridal dupattas and brocade are sold at Rs 500/- and above. One can have amazing types of dupatta provided one is willing to loosen the purse strings. The Tangails, Kanthas and Baluchars dupattas from the state of Bengal can be found in range of Rs.700/- to Rs.200/- whereas bandhini and laharia in silk and cotton range can be bought in region of Rs.100/- to Rs.500/-. Other favourite dupatta is Benares cut-work with zari and embroidered tili which is available in Rs.500/- and above.

Usage and History of Dupatta

Dupatta can be used in various formats. It can be worn with ghagra choli, with one end of Dupatta tucked at the waistband of the ghagra (long-skirt). This style is most often used by Rajasthani women. They are also known for using the dupatta on their head and both end of it flowing outwards. We can also see its usage with jeans, sometimes as a sarong or turban or sash. In south India, a different nomenclature is used for dupatta worn over a low skirt. It’s called half sari whereas in Assam it is called chaddar. In Gujarat, they call it chunri, whereas it is known as Dhathu in Himachal Pradesh. These dupattas or orhni or odhni comes in different texture of silk, cotton and chiffon. It also varies in length according to the region and culture of the place.

Going by the history, we don’t see any trace of dupatta in ancient civilization. Even archaeological evidences of Mohenjadaro and Harappan civilization don’t give us any proof of this particular garment. Though, vedic Indian people used to wear three garments; an under-garment called nivil, a garment known as vasas, and an overgarment known as adhivasa. Adhivasa was similar to dupatta or can also be termed as chaddar of modern times used by both male and female to cover their upper parts. Gradually it developed on its own as Indian women became more aware of their modesty.

Indian Dupatta

Dupatta is a typical Indian thing. Used as a traditional veil as well as fashionable scarf, Dupatta has omnipresence in India. More of a fascinating accessory, Dupatta provides wonderful finishing touch to western style dresses as well as Indian attires. Also known as the orhni or odhani, the literal meaning of dupatta is covering. Almost a diaphanous veil, it is used as a covering for the upper body parts, back, shoulders and head. The orhni is simply a length of cloth-printed, embroidered or plain, measuring two and a half to three down the back or wrapped around the shoulder.

Dupatta can be worn in various modes. One could be the traditional style of draped over the head. The other mode is, like worn with the middle portion of the dupatta resting on the chest like a garland and it’s both ends thrown over each shoulder. Often while being used with salwar-kameez, dupatta is flowing down the front and back, pinned in neat folds over just one shoulder. Some other times, both of the inner ends are knotted together over the other shoulder to form a cowl-like pattern, otherwise it generally drapes down the front and back.

Dupatta is a striking accessory that looks both graceful as well as stylist. It also provides a bit of value addition for the dress. Imagine, a plain silken or cotton salwar kameez ensemble worn with a heavily embroidered or sequined dupatta decorated with a beautiful border! How elegant! A few minor changes in dupatta or even in the way it is worn, and the whole thing gives fascinating dimensions and looks to the outfit and consequently the personality!